The Succès cake from Lenotre has always fascinated me, as a kid growing up in Paris, my uncle Maurice, has pampered us with this phenomenally rich delight whenever we visited him in Auteuil. He was of the generous type, a one of a kind person who had more fun seeing his loved ones indulging than anything else. To this day I still have dreams about this cake… where I am in Paris, and I just have to get down to Lenotre to get this cake before I leave Paris and there is never enough time… I will leave it to the psychologists in my family to interpret :-). Given that I am no longer living in Paris, I decided to take a stab at making one from scratch. I used Lenotre’s video together with this video as recipes (it’s in French, sorry), I messed it up the first couple of times, but eventually was able to put together a lavish Succès. The challenge with this cake is that it requires almost 1KG (2 lbs) of sugar… I was trying to cut a bit here and there but be careful when doing this, the meringue and the meringue italienne are losing shape without enough sugar… dedicated to the late and beloved Uncle Maurice, the pics show the original and my own creation, could you guess what’s what? 🙂
Author Archives: admin
My own private Beef Wellington
Sometimes you just want to go classic, make something festive, that would combine a bunch of great tastes in a totally old fashioned way. We all have these moments, after having too much sushi, steamed fish, farm to family, veggies, kale etc. (I like all these! but sometimes you just crave that piece of meat…). So yesterday night, when I was looking at the 2lb piece of dry aged rib eye lying in my fridge thinking about what to do with it, I had a Beef Wellington moment. Beef Wellington is a dish originally designed to add flavors to a fillet mignon, which is the most tender part of the beef, but lacks a bit of “meatyness” in comparison to other parts, some would even mention the word bland in this context, not sure I would go as far, if you get the right filet. The classic Wellington consists of wrapping a whole filet in puff pastry, with mushroom duxelles, prosciutto and sometimes even foie gras. The motivation for me to make Beef Wellington last night was driven by a piece of ribeye that was lying in my fridge, looking at me with its one eye and reminding me that unfortunately I haven’t yet bought an aging refrigerator for my home, and that it wouldn’t last forever there. Given that my ribeye was on the leaner side (for ribeyes), I decided to do a small surgery on it making it a “mock fillet”. The result was a lot of fun, obviously, the ribeye has much more flavor than a fillet, and the combination of it with puff pasty, mushroom duxelles, and nicely concentrated jus that I made from the ribeye bone with some onion, carrot and celery, was divine. Sometimes, it’s fun taking something that is already very rich in taste, and making it just tiny bit richer… As in the quote from the famous cult film Operation Grandma “how to win a race? you start at full speed and slowly slowly accelerate”… bon appetit!
Beef Wellington Tante Esther version
Ingredients:
2 lbs of ribeye, trimmed from fat (requires a bit of skill and a sharp knife but not rocket science).
1 sheet of butter based puff pastry
1 lb mushrooms (whatever you find in the market is cool, I used shitake as that’s what I found, you can go fancy with chanterelles or even porcini, if you find fresh ones)
3-4 shallots
two tablespoons of butter
some olive oil
one egg yolk
For the jus:
some bones and beef meat trimmings
1 carrot
half onion
half a celery root
a couple of celery leaves
2-3 cups of water
Preparation:
Preheat oven to 425F. Given that you’d want to chill the beef and duxelles before putting it inside the puff pastry (to avoid the beef from getting overcooked while the puff pastry is still not cooked) you’d want to start with lightly browning the beef from all sides, on high heat with some of the fat you trimmed before, once done, put in the freezer so that it chills quickly. In parallel, put chop the mushrooms and shallots in a food processor. Then put the chopped mushrooms and shallots with half the butter in a frying pan and sauté and stir for 10 minutes making sure a lot of the mushroom liquids evaporate, once done, spread on a plate and put in the freezer to chill. Once you set the mushrooms to start sauteing, put all the beef trimmings and bones with some olive oil in a pan, brown them well, and then add the vegetables for 2-3 minutes on medium heat, add 2-3 cups of water and let simmer for ~45 minutes (basically till you serve, the more time the better, and you can make the jus ahead of time, or just reduce a good beef stock you already have). After the beef and duxelles had 10-15 mins to chill in the freezer, it’s time to put together the dish. Lay the puff pastry sheet on a small cooking pan, spread half of the duxelles onto a thick circular layer that is roughly the size of the ribeye, then place the ribeye on top of it, and spread the rest of the duxelles on top of the ribeye. Then pull the puff pastry sheet to cover the whole thing, making sure the thickness of the puff pastry is similar from all sides. Brush the puff pastry with egg yolk from all accessible sides (not from the bottom of it…) and make a small chimney at the top to let vapor escape prevent the pastry from getting soggy. Put in the oven for 20 mins (or until browning of the puff pasty). Take out of the oven, let it rest for 5 minutes, slice, throw the remaining butter into the reduced jus, pour the jus on top, and serve.
Best restaurant in the whole world
Simple and awesome wine braised short rib recipe
4 lbs (2KGs) of beef short rib or any other type of fatty meat for slow cooking (shoulder could work too but it has to be a fatty part!). The “good” fat is in the marbling and in between meat layers, if there is bulk fat on the sides you can trim it out.
3 carrots
5-10 garlic cloves
10 shallots
1 bottle of wine
1/4 glass of brandy
3-4 potatoes.
Thyme/rosmary
Salt pepper to taste.
Brown the meat well in a heavy cast iron pot, on medium heat till it’s nice and brown on all sides, salt and pepper the meat. Take out of the pot. Make sure you don’t have any burnt remainders of the meat at the bottom of the pot, just the nice brown caramels – hence medium and not high heat.
Fry the veggies lightly (not the garlic) for 2-3 minutes in the same pot with the remaining fat and extract the caramels from the bottom of the pot, add a bit of water if needed.
Put everything back in the pot (including the garlic and the thyme/rosemary).
Bring to boiling and remove any foam.
Add the potatoes sliced into 4 or 8 on top. They can be outside the broth, they will cook well in the steam.
Close the lid and put in the oven for 3 hours at 170 celsius, if the sauce gets too evaporated, add some water; if the sauce doesn’t thicken enough, reduce it on the stove after cooking so that it is nice and concentrated (it depends on the sealing of the pot and on how much it allows evaporation in the oven).
“De-grease” the floating fat with a spoon.
Important to use a cast iron pot (Le-Creuset or similar).
Bon appétit!
Sahkshuka! the queen of eggs
Last weekend was a beautiful snowy one up in the mountains of northern California, and what’s a better excuse to cook for friends than an awesome ski cabin up in the mountains? I love skiing, but let’s admit it. Sometimes skiing is just an excuse to get a bunch of good friends together, raid wholefoods and buy the best ingredients, prepare some amazing dinners with lots of wine… and indulge. I have to do this again soon…
Then after dinner, and a great night sleep you wake up in the morning into a great skiing day, to make sure you start the day strong, a great tasty breakfast is due. That’s where our Shakshuka comes into play.
Shakshuka is mostly a breakfast/brunch dish, and is super simple to make. all you need is:
6 eggs
2 diced tomatoes (or a small can of diced tomatoes)
1 small can of tomato paste
1/2 a glass of water
1 chopped onion
1 chopped bell pepper
1 jalapeno chopped
3 cloves of garlic, chopped
salt and pepper
2 spoons of olive oil
Put the olive oil in a pan on high heat on the stove, add the chopped onion, then after a couple of minutes the bell pepper and the tomatoes. Let it fry for 5 minutes with no cover, then add everything but the eggs, cover, reduce the heat a bit and cook for 20 minutes, stirring every now and then to make sure it doesn’t stick and adding water if needed. Add salt and pepper and taste. Then, break the eggs and put them sunny side up in the sauce that was created, on low heat cook for 3-5 minutes (or until the white becomes white and the yellow is still nice and juicy). Salt and pepper again, serve on plates (or eat right from the pan..) to make it pretty, sprinkle some chopped jalapeno on everything. And remember! breakfast is the most important meal of the day… Happy skiing! I hope there is more snow coming around soon or I am moving to Europe…
Meyer lemon tahini & dry farm tomato Sabih
Since moving to California, I developed a strong passion for vegetables. Which if you know me you’d be a bit puzzled about. I am a carnivore, and love the complexity of meats and the delicate and sophisticated tastes of all sorts of fish and seafood.Well, I definitely still love these, but it was so much fun do discover what could be done with the variety of vegetables growing in Cali.
Sabih is a dish originating from Iraq, and is usually eaten in the morning or at lunch, in most cases as a pita sandwich. When I think of a good Sabih I think about a balance between sweet tomatoes and spicy jalapeno, about the beautiful caramels that come out of roasting eggplants in high temperature, and about creamy Tahini sauce. Yum.
My inspiration to this version of Sabih came from the amazing dry farm tomatoes that grow up in California, they are small, kinda in between a normal sized tomato and a cherry tomato, and they pack the taste of a bunch of tomatoes in that tiny little volume. Amazing. You just don’t understand this until you taste it. If there was tomato perfume, it would smell like this…
So the first secret to this dish is dry farm tomatoes that you could get in wholefoods in the summer and if you live in the bay area, YEAR ROUND in Berkeley Bowl, I probably shouldn’t be telling you about this, supply is probably limited… In any case discovering these amazing little gems (which are great to eat as they are with a bit of Atlantic salt and a drizzle of olive oil) made me want to match them with a couple of simple ingredients that would not over power them, but that would together create a party of tastes.
The second secret is meyer lemons, along the same theme, their perfumed smell, make almost every dish with them, a celebration. I used meyer lemon juice and skin in the tahini sauce and it was an awesome completion to wrap up the sweetness of the tomatoes and the eggplant, and the spiciness of the jalapeno into perfection.
The third secret, is the beautiful match between the taste of eggplant roasted under open fire, and hard boiled eggs. Tough to explain why, but it’s a natural fit that just works amazingly well.
With these three little secrets the road to a winning veggie appetizer (could easily serve as a great main course too) is short, try it, you’ll love it:
Ingredients (4 appetizers):
Tahini sauce
4 ounce raw tahini (you can get it in wholefoods or in middle-eastern food shops, the ones in the latter are usually better, the Tarazi brand which is pretty popular in California will do the job)
3 meyer lemons
1 garlic clove
~4 ounce ice water
1/2 flat teaspoon Atlantic salt
The rest
12 dry farm tomatoes (or 4 “on the vine” tomatoes)
2 large eggplants (choose them light and stiff, this means less seeds and freshness respectively)
2 green jalapenos
4 eggs
Preparation
Wash and dry the eggplants, make some holes in them using a fork and put in a pan very close (like an inch) to the broiler, they need to really feel the heat. Keep them on one side for 15 minutes then on the other side for another 15 minutes. Then take them out and let them chill, the dish is supposed to be served in room temperature so it’s better to let them rest for 15 minutes while you prepare the rest.
Chop the jalapeno, chop the tomatoes, boil the eggs in salt water for 10 minutes then peel and slice the eggs.
Making the tahini sauce – put the raw tahini in a food processor with the steel blade in, add the garlic clove and juice from 2 meyer lemons, wash and slice the third meyer lemon (take out the seeds) and put into the food processor with 1/3 of the water. Add the salt and turn on the food processor for 10 seconds, then add some water and run the food processor for another 10 seconds; repeat till it reaches the desired texture. The sauce should be thick but not “cementy” (like hummus) you could get an idea for the needed texture in the pic above.
Putting the dish together – cut each of the roasted eggplants in half, place them on 4 plates, add a pinch of Atlantic salt on the eggplant, then throw around the eggs, tomatoes, jalapenos, and the tahini sauce on top of all.
Serve and indulge.
Interesting twist is to serve all the ingredients separately to the table and let people DYOS (Do Your Own Sabih)